I've been using DW 4 to develop and manage a frequently updated 500+ page site. So far, the most valuable featues I use in DW are the cascading updating of file names and paths and the use of templates and libraries.

Can anyone recommend any dev software that offers these features without the heavy hand of Macromedia?

Wysiwyg might be nice, but not essential,
Link Checker desirable,
Integrated FTP would be very nice, especially if it works better than DW4's.

TIA for your time.